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  • Total days on the road: 586
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  • Miles Driven: 36821
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Mulege to Los Barriles

Written by Jared on November 29, 2011

Our shadows on a white sandy beech in los barriles.Start: Saturday November 12, Playa Santispec
Finish: Wednesday November 23, Los Barriles
White Sandy Beaches: 3
Crazy Three-Day Mexican Festivals: 1
Rainy Days: 1
Fish Caught and Eaten: 3

It's been a while since our last trip update, apologies to friends, family and those living vicariously through our travels. We've been hopping from beach to beach, enjoying the sun, a bit of fishing and a few surprises.

The past two weeks have taken us through the towns of Mulege, Loreto and Los Barriles along the east coast of southern Baja. We're currently in Cabo San Lucas at a beach-front resort (thanks Dad!) enjoying some down time and sorting out the next few weeks.

Our campsite on Playa Santispec.

As opposed to our previous few weeks, we encountered some authentic white sandy beaches along the Bahia Concepcion. We spent three nights camped on Playa Santispec, a picture-perfect beach just south of the town of Mulege.

A panorama of Playa Santispec.

Click the above for a full-sized panorama of our beachfront campsite. Despite the clouds, our first night on the beach was awesome.

Jessica's rainy sad face drawn in the sand.

The next day was not so great. It rained that evening and off-and-on through most of the next day. Jessica voiced her displeasure by drawing a frowny face in the sand.

Jared cooking some mole with Jessica for dinner.

That night I cooked us up some chicken mole for dinner. It wasn't the best and would definitely come back to haunt Kobus later.

Kobus shows off his not-so-big fish.

Thankfully, our last day in Playa Santispec brought much-improved weather. After an hour or two of fishing with lures, I gave up. Kobus diligently started hunting for some real bait. The shrimp salesman refused to sell us anything less than a kilo, so matters got drastic. The shallow beach water contained thousands of tiny bait fish. Kobus' relentless efforts were not without reward. 'Twas a monster fish.

One last shot of the beach near Mulege.

It was tough to leave once the weather got nice, but the next day was a work day. We headed into town to scope out hotel and internet options.

The outside of the Las Casitas Hotel.

We drove a short fifteen minutes back into Mulege and ended up at the Las Casitas hotel. We spent two nights there, our first time in a Mexican hotel this trip. It was quite enjoyable, the restaurant had good food, cheap beer, and it was nice to sleep on a mattress.

The inside of Las Casitas Hotel.

Las Casitas's restaurant and bar had a relaxing patio area, surrounded by plants, stray cats and fountains. A perfect place to chill out for a day and get some work done. Unfortunately Jared's chicken mole came back to haunt Kobus in all sorts of bad ways. He spent the better part of the next two days taking cipro like a mad man and trying to rehydrate.

A forest of cacti on the drive to Loreto.

Sadly leaving our comfy hotel in Mulege, we drove down the road to Loreto. It was a short drive, about two hours, and very scenic. Forests of 30 foot tall cacti and some of the biggest mountains we've seen in Mexico.

Main street in old town Loreto.

Loreto is a nice sized town with welcome amenities like a super market, cafes and a fishing pier. Above is a shot down the main walking path through the old town with the mission cathedral in the background.

The mision in Loreto.

The mission in Loreto was the first built in Baja and was used as a staging point for Jesuit expansion throughout the peninsula. The best part was the conveniently placed cafe where Jessica could get a bonafide cappuccino.

Fishermen at the marina in Loreto.

Kobus and I spent our last afternoon in Loreto fishing off the pier. We were seriously upstaged by the local kids who were pulling in rooster fish after rooster fish, small halibut, sea bass, needle fish, a pelican, and half a dozen ducks...

A sign for the street 20 November.

From Loreto it was a long six hour drive to Los Barriles, a small town south of La Paz. We camped at an RV resort/hotel on the beach and ended up liking it so much we stayed a week.

When we arrived on Friday a neighbor told us that there was a festival planned for the weekend celebrating the start of the Mexican revolution. The street outside the RV park was named 20 Noviembre (20th of November) in honor of the date, which happened to be that Sunday. Good timing for us.

A shot of the 20 November parade in Los Barriles.

Aside from parties lasting into the wee hours of the night, and a carnival of sorts, there was a parade Sunday morning.

School girls dancing during the 20 November parade in Los Barriles.

Lots of school children, police, military and crazy photo happy gringos. Regardless of the fact we waited longer for the parade to start than it lasted, it was a good show.

Kobus fishing in Los Barriles.

Fishing was the main reason to go to Los Barriles. The water is deep just offshore and full of giant fish. We saw a spear fisherman bring in a 76 pound wahoo. Kobus and I landed three edible fish and caught many more, enough for a few lunches and a dinner. Meanwhile, Jessica got some serious laptop'n done with the free wi-fi and even managed a few hours to work on her tan.

Up next, a week in Cabo and an overnight ferry from La Paz to the mainland.


#5 Jessicam 2013-03-11 12:53
Hey David,
We are going to publish an article on our Mexico campground in a few days (I know only 18 months late!) If you can't wait that long pick up a copy of the Mexico Camping book mby Mike and Terri Church. It's the best resource. There are plenty of places to stay in Baja, no need to drive it in a day for sure.
#4 David 2013-03-09 18:22
Hey guys, im driving down to Los Barrilles in April and need some advice once I cross the boarder about lodging on the way. I will probably cross the boarder at daylight. but i dont think I want to drive all the way to Los barrilles straight through. Do you have any suggestions?
Alta Lenard
#3 Alta Lenard 2011-12-11 21:21
I initially went on line to see if there were improvements done to Santispec beach since 2006. Was so very happy to see your pictures and note that all the housing structures were gone. We plan on going again in 2013
Marcell Puzsar
#2 Marcell Puzsar 2011-12-09 06:29
Have you seen some amazing sunsets along these places? I am glad u guys can warm up in the sun drinking bonafide cappuccino !
#1 Jo 2011-12-06 01:46
In-laws own land near Mulege; I can't believe you were there! (You wouldn't want to look them up, though, the locals call the main guy "el senor problema" and it's better to not be associated with them.) Family says to look for squid and whales in the Sea of Cortez, they love it there.

Great to know you're doing well.

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